Using microderm with needling

[April]

Sarah, I was considering possibly buying a microdermabrasion machine (there is a diamond microderm machine selling for $189 on Amazon) and using it before needling (and in place of steaming the skin first).

I find myself dragging my feet with needling because it requires so much prep time... and now that I want (finally have the courage) to get the 1.5 needle, I will want to put on some numbing cream beforehand too.

My thought was to cleanse the face well, use the numbing cream for about  30 min, rinse off and microderm the skin.  Then needle it.  And in between needling (say I do it once a month with the 1.5), I can microderm once a week.

What are your thoughts?  Would it be as good as steaming to soften up the skin?  My primary reason for wanting to add microdermabrasion is to reduce blackheads and dark spots (either from sun exposure or over-picking those dang blackheads).

Thanks,

April

[April]

Or....

Another option is using salicylic acid once a week to keep the blackheads at bay and to keep the skin softer.  As for needling prep time, I figure I can put up with the inconvenience if I go to the 1.5 needle and just dermaroll once a month.

I would rather not spend extra money on a dermabrasion machine, especially if it means I might be over exfoliating (with the needling already taking place).  

Before, I used glycolic acid, 20 percent, everyday.  This kept my skin pretty much blemish free but I worried about long term use of the glycolic.  I also thought switching to the A-ret would be a nice alternative and worked with the needling (I follow the routine you list on your site).  But since stopping the glyolic, my skin is more problematic.  I'm hoping the salicylic will be a good middle man between needling and the A-Ret.

Sorry for rambling!  Skincare is one of my favorite subjects.

[SarahVaughter]

If glycolic acid worked for you, I see no reason to stop using it. Salicylic acid is even better for acne and blackheads-prone skin because it has a comedolyitic (de-clogging) effect. It penetrates the pores and disrupts the sebum that plugs them. There is a popular myth that blackheads consist of dirt and they are caused by poor hygiene. Blackheads are in fact a mixture of sebum (oily substance produced by sebaceous glands inside the pore) and keratin (a tough, protective protein in the outer layer of the skin). The dark color of blackheads is due to accumulated melanin pigment deposition. Melanin is a pigment normally present in the skin, making up our skin color. The blackheads are only pigmented at the tip.

  To get rid of blackheads, you have to soften the keratin-sebum mixture. It is not an easy task. Keratin is very strong and tough material. In combination with oily sebum, it basically forms "glue" that plugs the pore. Keratolytics are substances that soften keratin. Salicylic acid is a keratolytic. Prolonged exposure to warm water also softens keratin however, oily sebum repulses water, and moreover you cannot dissolve the plugs with water or soap.

  Salicylic acid is oil-soluble (contrary to glycolic acid and other Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and therefore can penetrate the oily pore and soften the plug. Prolonged contact with the skin is needed. Cleaning the skin with a product containing salicylic acid is good but not enough. Every now and then, you have to apply a higher percentage of salicylic acid, massage it into the pores and leave it on the skin for an hour or longer.

  Furthermore, it has anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties, making it ideal for acne control.

  To make a long story short, I think you will be much better off with salicylic acid than microdermabrasion.

  The plugs can also be softened by prolonged contact with oils:

  https://http://forums.owndoc.com/dermarolling-microneedling/Oil-cleansing-method-to-get-rid-of-blackheads

[April]

Thank you, Sarah... I agree and placed an order for a 30% salicylic acid peel that I will use judiciously.  Perhaps once a week... I read that the peel can also help with hyerpigmentation issues and softening fine lines.  I am crossing my fingers.  I don't have a lot of acne/ blackheads but whenever I see them, I cringe.  Since I am far beyond the teenage years, using salicylic everyday is probably not necessary, but we'll see how it goes.  Eventually, I might go back to the glycolic in the am, A-Ret in the evening (alternating with your Vit. C solution).  (If my plan seems wrong, please let me know!)

Oh, and I also ordered some pure almond oil since you use that on your skin.  I thought it would be a great neutral moisturizer I could use in between the acids and A-Ret.

Thanks again,

April