Add glycerin into my DIY vitamin c

[samstom]

Sarah, can I add glycerin into my DIY vitamin c to make it more gummy?
Thanks!

[SarahVaughter]

I used to advise against mixing vit. C into creams or other substances because ascorbic acid (vit. C)  is best absorbed when applied directly to the skin but I understand that due to its watery consistency, it is a bit messy and mixing it into a cream will make things easier.

Vitamin C crystals basically never expire (keep them out of the sun and keep the container/bag closed).

Once you mix them with water or into something, it should be used up within a month (because it slowly starts to oxidize) and it should be stored in dark, closed container and preferably in the fridge.

So do not prepare or mix big batches.

[thehalokid]

Hi sarah,

First off im a big fan of you and your site and regularly buy from your site, I love the way your site and advice is science based.

I was hoping you could add some input.

 I recently read the following:

''vtamin C does not work in everyone For reasons that are not yet known, Ascorbic Acid at a good concentration does not work in everyone. It may only be 60% of the population who get the age reversing benefits of vitamin C. Some people who do not respond to Ascorbic Acid however still get anti-aging benefits from the newer vitamin C derivatives. (Discussed later). Vitamin C, however is a potent antioxidant and you still should get the benefits of protection from UV induced cell damage even if it does not keep you looking younger.''

This is contrary to what I believed and is quite discouraging! thats nearly half of all people who use vit c will not get the effects of UV damage reversal.

They go on to add the following:

''vitamin C derivatives are more stable, less expensive and effective at lower concentrations There are newer derivatives of Vitamin C: Ascorbyl palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and some of these are proving as effective as ascorbic acid in collagen stimulation. Refer Smartskincare an excellent science based skin care site. These derivatives are effective in lower concentrations, are more stable and less expensive and as such may be a better choice. There is a battle among some of the big cosmetic houses as to which is most effective but the newest Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate if particularly promising, and seems to work in some people who are resistant to Ascorbic Acid.''

so I have a couple of questions im hoping you can assist with:

1, how do we determine if vit c really is working for us (evidence wise) the only way I can think of is to get a UV analysis of the face, then use only vit c for 6 months (and do not use dermaroller or retin A) for a conclusive result?

2, whats ur opinion on the derivatives? is there enough science out the yet to support this? perhaps a solution that combines some of the above mentioned alternatives such as Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate might be a safer bet?

3, do u think you'll be selling any derivatives anytime soon im sure if the above statement is true then a lot of people will want to make serums with derivatives involved also just to be on the safe side? this would remove most doubt from

from minds when regarding UV damage reversal. surely if the evidence is there, then a combination of  vit c sources would most likely be raise the percentage of it working for everyone and certainly diminish the impractical side also of using the serum.

and of course this will then open up discussions on mixing and recipes and advice from yourself im sure will be contributed, which is always appreciated.


4, personally I find vitamin c quite harsh on the face as i have sensitive skin (even at low strength), and impractical as it has to be left on overnight and is sticky and leaves whites residue on the face, id prefer to wash it away after 30 mins or so
can i do that? will it has absorbed even by that time, or is there no science on this yet?

thanks in advance Sarah.

[SarahVaughter]

>>personally I find vitamin c quite harsh


The acidic forms of vitamins are usually the most effective but also the most irritating. The acidic form of vit. A  is Retinoic acid, Tretinoin. Other forms of vit. A are slowly converted to Tretinoin in the skin but the conversion rate is not as high as when Tretinoin is applied directly. Tretinoin however is quite irritating. The same comes for vit. C, ascorbic acid.
Ascorbic acid solutions are very effective but they have to be used up within about one month from making the formulation so unless you prepare it yourself at home, it is unrealistic to sell them because by the time it gets from the factory to the consumer, it is already oxidized and rendered useless.

Yes, you can wash it off after 30 minutes. 

We do not sell the derivatives of ascorbic acid because they failed to increase vit. C levels in the skin. Only ascorbic acid increased vit. C levels.

Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies

Pinnell SR, Yang H, Omar M, Monteiro-Riviere N, DeBuys HV, Walker LC, Wang Y, Levine M.
Duke University Medical Center, Department of Medicine, Durham, North Carolina 27707, USA.

RESULTS: L-ascorbic acid must be formulated at pH levels less than 3.5 to enter the skin. Maximal concentration for optimal percutaneous absorption was 20%. Tissue levels were saturated after three daily applications; the half-life of tissue disappearance was about 4 days. Derivatives of ascorbic acid including magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl-6-palmitate, and dehydroascorbic acid did not increase skin levels of L-ascorbic acid.

https://http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11207686


To make the subject even more complex, there is another problem with the derivatives of Ascorbic acid, namely peroxidation:

Vitamin C Derivative Ascorbyl Palmitate Promotes Ultraviolet-B-Induced Lipid Peroxidation and Cytotoxicity in Keratinocytes

https://http://www.healthmegamall.com/Articles/BabeskinArticle244.pdf



>>It may only be 60% of the population who get the age reversing benefits of vitamin C


Not everything always works in 100% of cases and for 100% of individuals but I doubt they can seriously back up the "maybe 60%" claim.

The results of the study below for example say there was significant improvement in wrinkling in 57.9% cases but it doesn’t mean that the rest did not get any improvement or benefits from vit. C. Vit. C helps preventing sun damage and that is very important.

Use of topical ascorbic acid and its effects on photodamaged skin topography.

Traikovich SS.
Beeson Aesthetic Surgery Institute, Carmel, Ind., USA. AJLively@POL.NET

RESULTS:
…Clinical assessment demonstrated significant improvement with active treatment greater than control for fine wrinkling, tactile roughness, coarse rhytids, skin laxity/tone, sallowness/yellowing, and overall features. Patient questionnaire results demonstrated statistically significant improvement overall, active treatment 84.2% greater than control. Photographic assessment demonstrated significant improvement, active treatment 57.9% greater than control.

[thehalokid]

Great response sarah thank you!

very detailed as usual, but I just need clarification a couple of points then and im sorted

you said vit c can be washed off after 30 mins- however are we doing an injustice by not waiting longer? for example do we know if most of the vitmain c has been absorbed as much as its going to.... say in the first 30 mins...

or if leaving it on for 60 mins is going to be 2x as effective for absorption than 30 mins?

I would prefer to wash it off, i just dont want to wash it off knowing if it was left for 1 or 2hrs it would be far more effective.



Sorry this part lost me

''RESULTS:
…Clinical assessment demonstrated significant improvement with active treatment greater than control for fine wrinkling, tactile roughness, coarse rhytids, skin laxity/tone, sallowness/yellowing, and overall features. Patient questionnaire results demonstrated statistically significant improvement overall, active treatment 84.2% greater than control. Photographic assessment demonstrated significant improvement, active treatment 57.9% greater than control''


I am interested in the protection of future damage, however I would like to clarify the situation regarding past damage also.

is the general message in the quote above that.......... yes around 60% saw significant 'age reversal' however 84.2% still saw a relevant degree of anti ageing result,

and this was shown through photographic UV assessment?

my apolgies 

thanks in advance.

[SarahVaughter]

to help prevent sun damage, it is more important to apply a lower concentration it regularly instead of a high concentration occasionally. (vit. C helps prevent sun damage.) Use any concentration up to 20% if your skin can handle it. The higher the concentration, the more benefits, with the optimal skin concentration reached at 20%.

84.2% of patients subjectively evaluated their results as improvement (of various levels) in a questionnaire.

"Patient self-appraisal questionnaires rated the degree of improvement (much improved, improved, slightly improved, no change, or worse"

60% of patients had significant results assessed objectively by these methods:

"Standard photographs were taken at baseline, including anteroposterior and left and right oblique views to facilitate subsequent clinical evaluations, and at the end of therapy for comparison. Optical profilometry analysis was performed on the skin surface replicas of the lateral canthal (crow's feet) region, comparing baseline to end-of-study specimens. Using this computer-based system, the resulting image was digitally analyzed, and numeric values were assigned to reflect surface features. The parameters obtained included Rz, Ra, and shadows. These values provided objective data that document pretreatment and posttreatment texture changes proportional to the degree of wrinkling, roughness, and other surface irregularities."

[annie71]

I too would be interested to know whether washing the vit c off after 30 mins reduces its effectiveness in any way or whether it will have all been absorbed within 30 minutes? Many thanks